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Among
Friends
Auberge, Spring/Summer 2005
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One visit to the Napa Valley and you want to return. There is more
to the place than an elegant, outdoor lifestyle focused on some
of the world’s best wine and most creative cuisine. Rich damp
growing smells fill the morning’s chill air. Slow eucalyptus
breezes encourage dreamy afternoon relaxation. The evening fog rolls
over the Mayacamas Mountains to wish the grapes sweet dreams. Dinner
outdoors, with a fire keeping the brisk ocean-scented air at bay,
ends the day with promises of another.
Two visits aren’t enough to catch the rhythm and moods of
a landscape that varies subtly by the hour, changes radically during
each season. Offering a magic life almost suspended between the
indoors and the outdoors at the Calistoga Ranch keeps luring you
back. Perhaps it is the decks built around the trees, the structures
blending into the landscape. Or is it the outdoor shower, sensuous
needles of hot water creating steamy clouds that release the wood
surround’s cedar scent? This is a year-round sybaritic hideaway
where the activity options include lazing and seared ahi à
la Nicoise comes off the kitchen fires of chef Robert Leva.
Three visits and you appreciate even more the casual yet sophisticated
sensibility at the Ranch, hidden in a steep walled canyon with a
spring-fed lake. You’ve selected a favorite hike (the old
fire road that starts by the wine cave and heads up through a stand
of manzanita to the top-of-this-world views from the ridge line)
and when you venture out of your cabin for dinner, The Lakehouse
waits, uncrowded. Only folks staying at the 46 hotel lodges and
27 owner units are allowed. Valley buzz suggests the food bests
that at the area’s top restaurants.
On the fourth visit, you’re planning the fifth while working
out on the television-equipped Precor treadmills at the open-air
gym which overlooks the heated lap pool and vineyards planted with
a variety of cabernet clones on different root stocks. There are
new wines to taste because with each visit, you appreciate, and
understand, more. Almost a local, you use the Silverado Trail to
avoid traffic on Highway 29, each “For Sale” sign issuing
a clarion call.
Now, contemplate the difference between vacationing in the Napa
Valley and owning a home there. It’s an outsider/insider thing,
the attitudinal difference between passing through and belonging,
between packing your favorite sweater and having it waiting for
you, between racing to a new restaurant in Yountville and knowing
the seasonal flavor cycle of milkshakes at Taylor’s Automatic
Refresher, a St. Helena drive-in with a wine list and micro-brews
on tap. It is the difference between trying to relax and relaxed
… until you think of running a second home and relaxation
as a concept recedes as visions of maintenance – gutter cleaning,
plumbing problems on a Saturday night, the roof in wind and rain
– emerge.
Stephanie Douglas, a Californian, married into a Virginia family
with the caveat that a home in Napa, possibly her favorite place
on the planet, happen sooner rather than later. She heard about
Calistoga Ranch a year before it opened. At that time, she had already
looked at the luxury homes in Napa Valley. As a traveler accustomed
to five and six star accommodations, she found the few homes available
to be lacking, even as prices skyrocketed driven by scarcity and
proximity to the San Francisco Bay Area. Douglas knew prospects
for future development were dim given Napa’s stringent land
use regulations. Indeed, Calistoga Ranch occupies what was the last
undeveloped parcel, a onetime private campground in the coveted
watershed district.
Even though her husband had proposed to Douglas in a hot air balloon
drifting over the Valley, he balked at purchasing a Napa Valley
home because of the headaches involved in maintaining a property
long-distance; it seemed even more impractical considering the number
of days they would actually be in residence.
In situations such as this resident club ownership is a rewarding
alternative to traditional home ownership. Club ownership comes
with the full rights and protections of a deeded interest, which
means owners can sell their interest. Auberge Resorts maintains
the ranch and provides the same amenities that resort guests are
given. It also provides owner services that range from preparing
the lodge for your arrival with groceries and personal items (which
can be stored on-site); to the Bathhouse Spa with its healing pools;
to wine storage at the Wine Cave; to meals at the Lakehouse restaurant
.
Owners use the lodges in three ways. Each year, they lock in two
or four weeks a year using a rotating priority system based on their
original membership number. Owners have booked two lodges for one
week or have enjoyed extended 14-day retreats. Another option is
reserved use, which allows owners to book ahead on a space-available
basis. Finally, there is short notice use which accommodates a visit
planned up to seven days before a desired arrival date. Owners can
also have guests without being present themselves, the “here’re
the keys to the house” option, using this to the full extent
of ownership privileges. Owners enjoy reciprocal privileges at other
Auberge properties such Esperanza in Cabo San Lucas.
“It sounded perfect for me,” said Douglas. “Why
would you want to own to have all those headaches. This made me
happy and addressed [my husband’s] concerns.”
Happy means Douglas, who purchased in July, 2004, has stayed at
the Ranch seven times as of Christmas. “I am there every chance
I get. My husband can’t wait to get back. Every time we’re
there, we book the next stay as we’re leaving.”
Heather and Mitch Buich, a Bay Area couple with three children,
had the same “aha!” experience before they bought a
membership in the Calistoga Ranch which is only an hour’s
drive from their primary residence. They had booked two lodges for
a family Thanksgiving. Twenty people gathered to relax and to cook
dinner together. When everything was ready, Lakehouse staff zipped
down on Ranch golf carts, swept everything away to a private dining
room with a lake view and served the meal. “I could see doing
that on a yearly basis,” said Heather Buich, “When it
is 95 percent occupied,” she added, “you hardly see
anybody.”
Set into the hills east of the Silverado Trail, the 157-acre steep
and wooded site is a former private campground, a legacy that inspired
Scott Lee of SB Architects during the design phase. Land-use restrictions
banning permanent structures forced the internationally recognized
team to think creatively. Environmental concerns dictated that every
tree on the Calistoga Ranch site be meticulously logged and marked
so the plan could preserve as many as possible. The architects opted
to build around the 100-year old heritage oaks and other trees,
saving 90 percent of those on the site. Rather than level hillocks
and dips, the architects sited the lodges in harmony with the topography
– near a stream, nestled into a promontory, floating out from
a hillside. Designed with a nod to Craftsman style, the lodges are
set on piling rather than traditional slab or perimeter foundations.
The trees, incorporated into the design, create drama that otherwise
would have come from built elements.
Almost one third of each lodge is outdoor space, a comfortable living
room with a large fireplace that keeps the couch cozy. Each lodge
stands alone, and each area of a lodge is a separate cedar-shingled
flat-roofed unit connected by redwood walkways floating above the
canyon floor. To make coffee in the morning, you walk outside from
the bedroom to the kitchen, even if you intend to crawl back into
the down and linen nest inadequately described as a bed. This configuration
coupled with the land’s undulations creates privacy, even
within each lodge. The copper and local fieldstone building elements
disappear into the landscape, even with the discreet modern accents
of black steel doors, windows and guide rails. Once inside, it is
difficult to see neighboring lodges through the woods. Think of
a tree house, one that is to childhood escapes as Nobu is to sushi
… surprising, sophisticated, a luxurious indulgence.
This sensibility colors every aspect of the Calistoga Ranch. The
interiors by Darrell Schmitt summon the outdoors in: “Everything
was worked painstakingly into the landscape.” With space at
a premium due to the site’s topography, every detail reflects
an aesthetic born of respect for the natural surroundings. He used
organic, natural materials in the outdoor spaces that will age to
match the palette of the surrounding environment: tan, copper-brown,
olive, sage and gold. The interiors maintain the color scheme, augmenting
it with textures such the silken plush of a throw and a nubby Tibetan
rugs. Indirect lighting sources, both inside and out, beckon with
a night-time warmth that alludes to Mexican illuminaria and paper-sided
Kyoto lamps. The Bathhouse echos this integration with nature, both
with its extensive use of local fieldstone and its panoramic views
over the healing mineral pools used for watsu massage. Karen Ray,
the spa director, plans to develop wellness programs that interested
lodge owners can maintain in-between visits.
Executive Chef Robert Leva creates menus that harmonize with nature
and uses only fresh organic ingredients. Fresh figs and other fruits
often appear in the kitchen from the abundant family gardens of
Ranch employees. The result is meals of transcendent simplicity
served with grace and goodwill by staff able to answer questions
or meet dietary requests.
Such local intimacy makes ownership at Calistoga Ranch a richer
experience than a short vacation there. Another way to really understand
the region is offered by the vintner program which includes such
luminaries as Robert Mondavi and industry insiders like Vincent
Arroyo. Kirk Venge of Venge Vineyards, who oversees creation of
the Ranch’s own wine, envisions owners who are passionate
about participating in all phases of wine-making with the 26 participating
vintners. Owners will be able to develop relationships with vintners
in the Calistoga Ranch program that carry beyond the Wine Cave tastings
or vineyard picnics. And in this way, the owners will truly belong
to the community that is Napa Valley.
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